A lot of cars (especially foreign cars) are not fully populated. Having worked on many different kinds of vehicles I knew to look at the OBD port itself before pulling my hair out. zero volts.well, then you don't and should be able to access all modules as described already.Īnyway, it's nice to see forums that share information like this and I hope I can only add to the help and not to the confusion for someone else. Measure the DC voltage on that pin, if it has about 11v or so.THEN you must use an ADS interface. It was mentioned earlier in this thread somewhere that if you have pin 15 inside this 20 pin connector then you must use an ADS interface.īut what you need to do is, if you have pin 15 populated, is to check to see if it is "live". I also wanted to emphasize differences in some of the 20 pin connectors under the hood (bonnet). Otherwise the OBD port would work without extra jumpering. Pin 15 of the VAGCOM OBD cable is there, but there is no pin 15 wired IN THE CAR's OBD port. Hence my quicky wire up scenario for those without a 20 pin cable adapter. With the cap on you can access some modules because 17 and 2 are tied together. Biggest problem with using strictly the OBD port (aside from no ignition signal) is that there is no direct tie between pin 20 and anything in the OBD port. The "cap" on the 20 pin connector has internal pins that are tied together when the cap is on. Glad to have been of some help, because I went through the same struggles getting any sort of communication going on my cars.įigured I'd add some more tidbits for these older cars. It works ALWAYS but you have to practice. We are talking about 5 or six joint.only porblem is to use the sharp point in the solder and low watt not to detach and overheat the chips.for the rest if you want to take off the alloy from the joined pin I use the very very old trick of using the external core of the coaxial tvcable and soldering paste. Crap I got TOO MANY HOBBIES.Ĭome on we do not have to scare people with this impressive pics.
Navcoder windows 7 64bit full#
there's also another a closet full of shit, a floor full of hifi "projects" waiting to be fixed and that doesn't count the tube guitar amps.
a bit older pics, there's more gear now, for instance the hot air stuff isn't in these pics. Here's a shot of my 2 electronic benches. For instance where you bridged a bunch of pins, I can hot air heat that stuff up then just suck all the excess solder back off with the vacuum and then touch it up later w/ solder paste if it even needs it (might not). I def did some "SMD" (surface mount device) work w/ plain irons before I got more gear but dayum once you have some solder paste and the hot air rig it gets WAY easier not to F things up!!!! Sure I could fix your prob by hand w/ an iron and braid or an old school solder-sucker but screw that fussy sh1t.
OK and I confess - and the ultimate DEFCON 1 secret weapons: vacuum pump desoldering rework tool and hot air rework station, in addition to a basic half-decent temp controlled soldering iron.
Navcoder windows 7 64bit plus#
a variety of good work clamps (I have 2 Panavices plus an old skool soldering work holder and then a PCB hot-air rework holder thingy) that hold the piece in the right spot and hopefully help you have a way to brace your hand to keep it steady unless you have magic steady hands.various kinds of magnifying lamp and/or glasses.
) said above, what helps me do this kind of stuff are. In addition to what vince (mmmmmm booooooobzzzzz. Drew - from what you describe here and in the PM you sent, should be no prob to ressurect that cable with the tools I have at hand - although have to see to really be sure, I'm pretty confident as long as you haven't lost any components or burned them up from overheating or torn up any traces.